Discovering Argentinian Malbec
- Auteur : Vincent
Before settling in the beautiful city of Bordeaux, my desire for discovery and adventure led me across the Atlantic, to the land of the Gauchos and Malbec. Freshly graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in wine and spirits marketing, I arrived in December, amidst the bustling energy of Buenos Aires.
The disorientation isn’t as surprising as one might expect, even though I’m more than 10,000 kilometers away from France. In fact, the European, particularly French and Italian, influence is felt as soon as you step into Argentina’s capital.
A few days in this magnificent city allowed for a smooth adaptation to this new country, and especially to the very distinct local accent. Porteños speak Spanish in a bewildering way for anyone accustomed to the Castilian Spanish of our Iberian neighbors.
Little by little, I became accustomed to the local rhythm and its gastronomy. The asado, the Argentine barbecue, which the locals have elevated to the status of religion, is omnipresent in the restaurants. Already, the richness and diversity of the local wines piqued my curiosity and delighted my taste buds. The first glasses of Malbec accompanied steaks and empanadas.
The goal was not to stay in this extravagant capital, but to head closer to Argentina’s great wine regions, mainly concentrated in the Mendoza Province and its capital, which shares the same name. This next step was no small feat, as Buenos Aires is located on the east side of the country, near the Atlantic Ocean, while Mendoza, its wine capital, is on the extreme opposite west, at the foot of the Andes Mountains.
Thus began a 14-hour bus journey to cross the entire country, with dry and arid landscapes providing the backdrop for this journey into the land of Malbec.
As soon as I arrived, I was on my way again. My first stop wasn’t the province’s capital, but its vineyards, specifically the Maipú region, which is about 30 minutes from downtown. The first two weeks of my adventure would be spent with Cristian, with whom I had made contact via a volunteering website beforehand. Cristian runs a wine bar in the small village of Coquimbito, on the wine route, often traversed by cyclists who stop at bodegas along the way.
It was the perfect place to familiarize myself with the local wines. Maipú is a historic wine region in Mendoza, at a slightly lower altitude than Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley, the two other iconic wine regions. The climate is hot and dry. Malbec reigns here, representing the vast majority of the vines.
Maipú has a long winemaking history, dating back to the colonial era. The first vineyards were planted in the region in the early 19th century, after Argentina’s independence. It was mainly Spanish monks who introduced viticulture to the region.
It was also in Maipú that some of the first commercial wineries in Mendoza were established, playing a central role in the growth of the Argentine wine industry. This is evident as, on my bike ride, I was able to discover the first great names of Mendoza’s terroir: Trapiche, La Rural, and Casa El Enemigo.
I tasted Malbecs rich in depth and complexity, with notes of ripe black fruits. Thanks to the wide temperature range (the difference between day and night temperatures), Maipú’s Malbec presents a good balance between acidity and tannins, which is sometimes lacking in Malbecs produced in other regions.
After these two weeks at the well-named wine bar La Botella, the harvest began, and I found myself as a harvester in Maipú, at the charming small winery Carinae, at the time run by Brigitte and Philippe, a French couple. Due to a very hot summer, we were hand-picking Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, which had reached beautiful ripeness. In the evenings, locals and other travelers like me would share our life experiences around asados and fine wines from the rich local terroir. Unforgettable memories.
Once the harvest was finished, I spent several days exploring the other regions of Mendoza: Luján de Cuyo first, then the Uco Valley, famous for its breathtaking landscapes, with the vineyards framed by the Andes Mountains and their snow-capped peaks in the background, essential for supplying water to the vineyards. What a spectacle! Magnificent to behold and naturally very interesting in the glass: located at higher altitudes (between 1,000 and 1,500 meters), the Uco Valley is renowned for its cooler Malbecs, with higher acidity and more floral and mineral aromas. The cooler temperatures and cold nights favors better preservation of aromas and acidity.
The end of the adventure was near, after a few nights in Mendoza city and back again in Buenos Aires.
Naturally, during my visits to iconic bodegas such as Diamandes, Rutini, or the emblematic Catena Zapata, my bags became heavier with a few bottles, brought back as souvenirs of this wonderful Argentine adventure, and which accompanied me whenever nostalgia for this magnificent country would strike.
A few years later, the memories are still intact, and I can only recommend that you go and explore these distant lands for yourselves.
Hasta Luego Argentina!
L'article en images...
